Still Hungry? December 2015

Plucked from the pages of the local cookbooks we are featuring this month in “Gifts for the Home Cook,” here are four great recipes that will bring a little local flavor to your holiday table.

For the holidays, I have a few traditions I share with my family. We always have breakfast together after everyone gets in, and this year, I’m making everyone these Southwestern-style pancakes from Sharon Niederman’s gem, The New Mexico Farm Table Cookbook.

Toasted Pinon-Dusted Blue Corn Pancakes

Serves 4

This is a Sunday morning brunch treat that my family serves with bacon and chokecherry syrup that we make from chokecherries we forage in Cimarron Canyon each August. This recipe is good with honey butter.

1 ½ cups finely ground atole (toasted blue cornmeal) preferably horno roasted
¼ cup all purpose or whole wheat flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 ½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ cup toasted ground piñon nuts, divided
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 ½ cups buttermilk or a combination of whole milk, yogurt, or unsweetened soy or coconut milk
¼ cup vegetable oil (not olive oil)
Honey butter, for serving (optional)
Chokeberry syrup, local honey, or pure maple syrup, for serving

Heat a griddle, preferably cast iron

Place the dry ingredients in a large bowl, including ¼ cup of the piñons. In another bowl, combine the eggs, buttermilk, and oil. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients. Stir quickly, just enough to mix. Spoon the pancakes onto the hot griddle, using 2 large tablespoons of batter per pancake. When the edges start to bubble, flip once with a spatula. Serve hot with honey butter, if desired, and chokecherry syrup, local honey, or real maple syrup, sprinkled with the reserved ¼ cup of toasted piñons.

Niederman, Sharon. The New Mexico Farm Table Cookbook: 100 Homegrown Recipes from the Land of Enchantment (The Farm Table Cookbook). The Countryman Press, 2015.

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Portobello 48

James Caruso Local Flavor

Cover photo by Kate Russell

from James Campbell Caruso of La Boca

Mushrooms marinated in Tempranillo for 48 hours, then grilled and served with sheep cheese custard.

For the marinade:
2 cups Tempranillo red wine
3 cloves garlic (chopped)
4 large mushroom caps
1 Tablespoon rosemary (chopped)
3 Tablespoons Spanish extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

Toss ingredients together and marinate for 48 hours.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

For the custard:
1 cup light cream
1/2 cup milk
2 eggs
1Tablespoon parsley (chopped)
1/4 cup shredded Idiazabal cheese (slightly smoky Basque sheep milk cheese)
salt and pepper

Whisk all ingredients in a bowl. Rub the inside of four 3 oz. ramekins with olive oil. Fill each ramekin 3/4 full with custard mixture and bake in a covered water bath for 30 minutes.

Light the grill.

Remove mushrooms from marinade and grill on medium heat for about 3 minutes per side. Lay a mushroom on each plate and carefully remove custard from ramekin to sit on top of the mushroom. Makes 4 tapas.

James comments, “This is a popular vegetarian tapa from the menu at La Boca. We like the depth and earthy flavors of the mushroom and rich, leathery tones of the Tempranillo (which) penetrate the mushroom with the long marinating time. The grill adds smoke and it is finished with the luscious balance of the custard. Try it with a salad for an early fall dinner.”

 

La Boca is located at 72 West Marcy Street in Santa Fe. 505.982.3433. labocasf.com.

Champagne-Mustard Dressing

Martin Rios Local Flavor

Cover photo by Kate Russell

from Martín Rios of Restaurant Martín

1 shallot (minced)
2 cloves roasted garlic
1 green apple (peeled and chopped)
1/2 cup Champagne
1/4 cup Champagne vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
2 bay leaves
1 Tablespoon white peppercorns
2 cups vegetable oil
1 cup olive oil
1/2 cup grain mustard
salt and pepper

In a saucepan combine the first eight ingredients and reduce to half over low heat. Strain and chill. When cold, transfer to a blender and purée by adding both oils slowly to emulsify. Transfer to a bowl and fold in the mustard. Season well. Makes 1 quart.

Oysters On The Half Shell With Riesling Sorbet

Mark Kiffin Local Flavor

Cover photo by Gaelen Casey

from Mark Kiffin of The Compound

2 dozen Pacific Northwest raw oysters
2 cups Riesling wine
1 cup white sugar
1 cup water
3 Tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 small bunch micro greens

To prepare sorbet, combine wine, water and sugar and bring to fast boil. Remove from heat; let cool slightly and add the lime juice. Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Shuck the oysters with an oyster knife, slicing the raw oyster away from shell and place on iced plates. When ready to serve, scoop a tablespoon size amount of sorbet onto the oysters, top with micro greens and serve cold and immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Mark comments, “Summertime is the perfect time for oysters and crisp white wine, so why not put them together? Here is a simple way to showcase great oysters with a sorbet that melts, adds a wonderful luscious flavor and also keeps the oysters cold at the same time. The sorbet can be eaten by itself. A Muscat, Gewürztraminer or simple Pinot Grigio can also be substituted. It goes great with summer melon and cookies for a light outside dessert as well.”

The Compound is located at 653 Canyon Road in Santa Fe. 505.982.4353. compoundrestaurant.com.

Fresh Porcini’s Sautéed with Sherry

Eric DiStefano Local Flavor

cover photo by Kate Russell

from Eric DiStefano of Geronimo and Coyote Café

2 pounds fresh porcini mushrooms
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1 Tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
2 cloves garlic (minced)
1 cup Pedro Ximénez sherry
salt and pepper
sliced batard

Brush clean and slice the porcinis, and lightly brown the brown butter in a sauté pan. Add mushrooms, thyme and garlic; sauté until mushrooms are browned. Add sherry and reduce by half over low heat. Salt and pepper to taste, and serve over buttered and lightly grilled slices of batard. Makes 4 servings.

There’s nothing like fresh-fresh. Eric, who has a source for porcinis that are picked in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains says, “Porcinis are a flash in the pan. You can substitute criminis, morels… But for now they’re in abundance. This year they’re pristine. With the cold nights we’ve been having, they’re prospering.”

 

Geronimo is located at 724 Canyon Road in Santa Fe. 505.982.1500. geronimorestaurant.com

Coyote Café is located at 132 West Water Street in Santa Fe. 505.983.1615. coyotecafe.com.