I Heard it on the Grapevine

plumpjack_17September marks the most important milestone of the year (in the northern hemisphere) for winemakers, grape growers, oenophiles and anyone else whose career or pleasure depends on vitis vinifera—harvest. The previous season’s pursuits hang in golden and purple clusters on rows of vines from California to France. Workers pick tons upon tons of grapes and winemakers endure sleepless nights monitoring the progress of fermenting juice. But for those lucky enough to live in Santa Fe, September promises a week full of great food, wine and general revelry with the annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta. With over 150 participating wineries, importers and distributors (not to mention the incredible lineup of local restaurants), and the celebration of the event’s 25th year, 2015 is shaping up to be one of the best Fiestas yet. This year’s participating wineries have a lot to report since last year’s festivities, including a slew of awards, new winemakers, the introduction of new wines and even a marriage or two.

Silver Oak Cellars, SFWC’s Honoree of the Year, acquired full ownership of a Missouri-based cooperage producing American oak barrels. Founded in 1972 by Raymond T. Duncan and Justin Meyer, Silver Oak makes two Cabernets—one from Napa Valley and the other from Alexander Valley in Sonoma County. New winemaker Nate Weis (formerly of Antica Napa Valley) will have the opportunity not only to hand-select grapes, but to hand-select staves for the barrels in which his wines will age. Talk about quality control!

CADE, perched high up on Howell Mountain in Napa Valley, was created in 2005 by the founders of Plumpjack Winery as a compliment to that label’s valley-floor wines. CADE had reason to celebrate this year, as winemaker Danielle Cyrot released the first wines she nurtured all the way from vine to bottle. A graduate of UC Davis, Cyrot has worked harvests at Schramsberg and Artesa Vineyards in Napa and has worked for wineries in Alsace, France and South Australia. Danielle will continue to lead CADE in its commitment to sustainability—the winery was the first Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design Gold Certified in the Napa Valley. Continue reading

Still Roasting and Crushing 25 Years Later: Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta

 

WineChileHistory

While other national food and wine events focus on globetrotting celebrity guest chefs, national magazine advertisers or Food Network stars (some of whom have never worked in a restaurant), the identity of The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, since its inception in 1991, has always been and still is the Santa Fe restaurant community.

On a bright and slightly cool afternoon in the Santa Fe railyard on the last Saturday of September 1991, a one-day food and wine event took place where, for $10, you could buy a coupon book with 10 chits, each one redeemable for either a taste from one of the 20 participating Santa Fe restaurants or a sip from one of 20 California wineries. Forty tasting booths were lined along the perimeter of the L-shaped parking lot behind the Sanbusco Market Center. In the front corner, a street vendor slowly turned the handle on his chile roaster, blistering a fresh batch of Hatch green, the smoke wafting into the crisp fall air.

In a smallish tent on the opposite corner, three of the founders of modern Southwestern cuisine—Mark Miller of Coyote Café in Santa Fe, Rick Bayless of Topolobampo in Chicago and Stephan Pyles of Routh Street Cafe in Dallas—took turns demonstrating their chile-cooking techniques.

That day, I worked the Coyote Café booth, quickly flipping griddled corn cakes and seared shrimp, then plating each with a smidge of chipotle butter and a spoon of salsa fresca. My co-worker, Sarah, swapped our samples for coupons with the lively wine-supping crowd of 300. Looking up from my hot flattop under the clear high-desert sky, I had no way of knowing that I was witnessing the birth of the inaugural Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, now going stronger than ever at age 25. Continue reading

Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta-The Big Buzz

What’s the motif of our local palaver? Family-owned, independent businesses, right? Put your napkin where your mouth is at Andiamo! Opened in 1995 (so, let’s see? 20 years! Shut up!), this bungalow—convivially remodeled recently—at 322 Garfield Street, a stone-fruit-throw from the Railyard, puts up classic Italian fare and a list of brilliant wines. Joan Gillcrist and husband Will Strong must be good bosses, because you’re welcomed by longtime manager Brenda Acosta and even longer-time executive chef Esteban Parra.

While we’re at it, we take our hats off to 315 Restaurant and Wine Bar and Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen, also 20-somethings.

**Here’s a tip about Modern General, Erin Wade’s newest venture: put on the feedbag! Modern General serves food all day, but the trick is to hit it between 8 and 11 a.m. or, say, 3 to 5 p.m. when the shared parking lot isn’t so crowded with folks eating at Wade’s Vinaigrette. Snag a breakfast sandwich, or their “daily” sandwich special, or my go-to sautéed greens in broth topped with a perfectly poached egg. Sure, ogle fine garden tools, books, pitchers, kitchen towels; be hip and sip smoothies, coffees, teas; do a turmeric shot with fresh orange juice; or take home flour, ground weekly on their new mini stone mill. But, if it gets hard to park during those off-hours, I’m going to wish I hadn’t told you. Continue reading

The First Five Years….Pioneers!

The SFWC was the 1991 brainchild of Mark Miller, Al Lucero, and Gordon Heiss. While other national food and wine events focus on globetrotting celebrity guest chefs, national magazine advertisers, or Food Network stars (some of whom have never worked in a restaurant), the identity of The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, since it’s inception in 1991, has always been and still is the Santa Fe restaurant community.

Miller, who opened Coyote Café in 1987 to national acclaim, was and remains a proponent for even more festivals in Santa Fe. Lucero, who sold Maria’s restaurant last year after owning and running it with his wife Laurie for 27 years, was a wine enthusiast who wanted to prove New Mexican cuisine was worthy of a cultured beverage other than beer. Along with Heiss, all three wanted to create an event that would bridge the Santa Fe tourism gap between the early September Spanish Market and the October International Balloon Fiesta.

Over dinner and three bottles of Joseph Phelps 1985 Insignia on the patio at La Casa Sena, the three concocted Santa Fe Chile & Wine Fiesta, planning an afternoon bacchanal that would feature Santa Fe’s top restaurants serving tastes, alongside world-class wine.

From its inception the event has attracted world-class wineries. Beth Novak Milliken, the CEO and President of Spottswoode Winery, one of Napa Valley’s “First Growths,” was a participant at the 1991 inaugural event and a regular attendee in recent years. “The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta has, in my view, really evolved alongside the restaurant scene in Santa Fe,” she said. “As I recall, when the Fiesta first started in 1991, Mark Miller’s Coyote Cafe was getting a lot of buzz and helped to put Santa Fe on the fine dining map. There were other good restaurants in town, too, and all likely improved and ‎got more notoriety as a result of the buzz generated by Coyote Cafe.”

Like so many of the distinguished “regulars” who grace the affair with their culinary and wine knowledge, Milliken has had a front-row seat during the evolution of the event. “The Wine & Chile Fiesta has come a long way since the first year, and what I find so compelling is that the restaurateurs really support it and participate enthusiastically, making it a true community event among local restaurants and people, wineries from all around, and those who love to visit Santa Fe.”

The second and third year of the event moved the Grand Tasting to the courtyard of the Eldorado Hotel where then General Manager Paul Margetson welcomed the extra business the event attracted. In 1993, Michael Cerletti, working as General Manager at Betty Eagan’s Rancho Encantado, hosted a Sunday event in the resort’s horse barn named Champagne and Dirty Boots. The event was successful but disappeared when Cerletti went onto to his second term as New Mexico Secretary of Tourism. With Champagne Ruinart’s help, however, the Champagne and Dirty Boots event was revitalized last year with chef Andrew Cooper (a James Beard best chef of the Southwest semi-finalist this year) and the new Four Seasons management team at Rancho Encantado.

In 1989, shortly after moving to Santa Fe from San Francisco, I met Al Lucero while waiting tables at Santacafe. I had heard that Lucero was the king of margaritas and was surprised when he ordered a bottle of Dom Perignon for his guests. I quickly discovered that Al and I shared a passion for wine and we became fast friends. In 1991, I started working at Coyote Café with chef Mark Kiffin (owner of The Compound Restaurant) who, for over 25 years, has skillfully and generously added to what Mark Miller started.

By 1994 the SFWC Fiesta was gaining some traction and growing, but Miller was busy getting ready to open Coyote Cafes in Austin and Las Vegas with Chef Kiffin, so Lucero and Heiss needed someone to handle the logistics of the event. I interviewed with Lucero and was hired as the event’s executive director. The first thing we did was visit Max Meyers at Sunwest Bank to ask for a loan as seed money for the 4th annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta.

From 1994 – 1997 we held the Grand Tasting on an increasingly longer tent on the back lot of the Hilton of Santa Fe, adding a series of wine. One of the highlights of those years was having Joe Heitz, the founding legend of Heitz Wine Cellars, host a vertical tasting of his iconic Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

1998 through 2014

Over the next 17 years of the SFWC Fiesta, events were added and the number of days increased. A series of cooking demonstrations with visiting and local chefs was added to the schedule in 1999. In 2000 the first Friday Reserve Tasting took place, and a Trade Tasting on Wednesday extended the event to five days in 2001. In 2004, as a fund-raising effort for Santa Fe’s Cooking with Kids, a Live Auction Luncheon was added to the schedule, with five guest chefs each doing a course, paired with wines from a Winery Honoree of the Year.

Winery Honorees in the early years included Veronique Drouhin of Willamette Valley, Georg Riedel and Robert Mondavi. In 1997, during the boisterous Reserve Tasting in Eldorado Pavilion, Robert Mondavi walked in with his wife, Margit Biever. The 100 winery principals stopped pouring and a silent hush filled the room. Master Sommelier Robert Bath, pouring Shafter Hillside Select, turned to me and whispered, “My god, it’s Robert Mondavi. Without him and what he did for California wine, none of us would be standing here right now.”

Thankfully, we are still here, and still evolving. One of the biggest and best changes over these years was the 1998 move of the Grand Tasting to the Santa Fe Opera grounds. Overall, the time of year and the location combined with the preponderance of great Santa Fe restaurant participants sparks an enthusiastic and acclaimed winery participation which translates to a win-win for the eclectic and international crowd of consumers who attend every year.

Jason Haas, head of the small, family-owned Tablas Creek Winery in Paso Robles, rarely attends large wine events, but SFWC is an exception. “We love the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta for how totally it’s integrated into the culinary scene there.  Nearly every great restaurant in Santa Fe (and there are a lot) participates, and not just in a token way.  The result is that everyone involved, from wineries to sommeliers to consumers, wants to come back each year. And not just to show off what they’re doing that’s new, but to reconnect with old friends and to enjoy the unique richness of the town’s great food & wine scene.”

Top 5 Guest Chef Participants Southwest

Stephen Pyles
Mark Miller
John Sedlar
Mark Kiffin
Rick Bayless

Top 5 Guest Chef Participants

Jean Louis Palladin – The Watergate, Washington D.C.
Jose Andreas — Café Atlantico
Nancy Oakes – Boulevard, San Francisco
Matthew Accarrino – SPQR, San Francisco
Julian Serrano – Picasso, Las Vegas

Top 5 Wine Seminars

Win Wilson – Horizontal 1996 DRC & Domaine Dujac
John Shafer – Vertical Shafer Hillside
Paul Draper – Vertical Ridge Monte Bello
Veronique Drouhin – Domaine Drouhin Oregon
Joe Heitz – Vertical of Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet

Winery Honorees of the Year

2004 Veronique Drouhin, Domaine Drouhin Oregon
2005 John Shafer, Shafer Vineyards, Napa
2006 Robert Mondavi
2007 Georg Riedel
2008 Tom Shelton, Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Napa
2009 Dick and Nancy Ponzi, Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley
2010 Paul Draper, Ridge Vineyards
2011 Richard Sanford, Alma Roas, Santa Barbara
2012 Beth Novak Milliken, Spottswoode Vineyards, Napa
2013 Kathleen Heitz, Heitz Wine Cellars, Napa
2014 Laurent Gruet, Gruet Winery, New Mexico
2015 Tim Duncan, Silver Oak 

Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta Presidents

1991-1993 David Hoeman
1994-1996 Al Lucero
1997-1998 Brett Kemmerer
1999-2001 Randy Randall
2002-2003 Bert Leyva
2004-2005 Cater Tague
2006-2007 Kate Collins
2008-2009 Tom Kerpon
2010-2011 Emily Padon
2012-2013 Marla Thompson
2014-2015 Al Lucero

Still Hungry? September 2014

Screen Shot 2014-09-03 at 12.57.18 PMThere is simply no rest for Santa Feans in the summer and early fall. We barely pack up the tents from Indian Market (an astonishing tour de force that draws thousands of artists and collectors from all over the world to celebrate the creativity of Native culture)––and here we are setting up the party tents for yet another reknowned event––the Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta. This month, foodies and oenophiles will come from far and wide to experience the creativity and spirited camaraderie of our culinary community and their passion for the finest of wines.

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