Still Roasting and Crushing 25 Years Later: Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta

 

WineChileHistory

While other national food and wine events focus on globetrotting celebrity guest chefs, national magazine advertisers or Food Network stars (some of whom have never worked in a restaurant), the identity of The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, since its inception in 1991, has always been and still is the Santa Fe restaurant community.

On a bright and slightly cool afternoon in the Santa Fe railyard on the last Saturday of September 1991, a one-day food and wine event took place where, for $10, you could buy a coupon book with 10 chits, each one redeemable for either a taste from one of the 20 participating Santa Fe restaurants or a sip from one of 20 California wineries. Forty tasting booths were lined along the perimeter of the L-shaped parking lot behind the Sanbusco Market Center. In the front corner, a street vendor slowly turned the handle on his chile roaster, blistering a fresh batch of Hatch green, the smoke wafting into the crisp fall air.

In a smallish tent on the opposite corner, three of the founders of modern Southwestern cuisine—Mark Miller of Coyote Café in Santa Fe, Rick Bayless of Topolobampo in Chicago and Stephan Pyles of Routh Street Cafe in Dallas—took turns demonstrating their chile-cooking techniques.

That day, I worked the Coyote Café booth, quickly flipping griddled corn cakes and seared shrimp, then plating each with a smidge of chipotle butter and a spoon of salsa fresca. My co-worker, Sarah, swapped our samples for coupons with the lively wine-supping crowd of 300. Looking up from my hot flattop under the clear high-desert sky, I had no way of knowing that I was witnessing the birth of the inaugural Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, now going stronger than ever at age 25. Continue reading

Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta-The Big Buzz

What’s the motif of our local palaver? Family-owned, independent businesses, right? Put your napkin where your mouth is at Andiamo! Opened in 1995 (so, let’s see? 20 years! Shut up!), this bungalow—convivially remodeled recently—at 322 Garfield Street, a stone-fruit-throw from the Railyard, puts up classic Italian fare and a list of brilliant wines. Joan Gillcrist and husband Will Strong must be good bosses, because you’re welcomed by longtime manager Brenda Acosta and even longer-time executive chef Esteban Parra.

While we’re at it, we take our hats off to 315 Restaurant and Wine Bar and Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen, also 20-somethings.

**Here’s a tip about Modern General, Erin Wade’s newest venture: put on the feedbag! Modern General serves food all day, but the trick is to hit it between 8 and 11 a.m. or, say, 3 to 5 p.m. when the shared parking lot isn’t so crowded with folks eating at Wade’s Vinaigrette. Snag a breakfast sandwich, or their “daily” sandwich special, or my go-to sautéed greens in broth topped with a perfectly poached egg. Sure, ogle fine garden tools, books, pitchers, kitchen towels; be hip and sip smoothies, coffees, teas; do a turmeric shot with fresh orange juice; or take home flour, ground weekly on their new mini stone mill. But, if it gets hard to park during those off-hours, I’m going to wish I hadn’t told you. Continue reading

New Mexico Beer and Wine at New Mexico State Fair

For the first time, adult fairgoers this year will be able to find a favorite among several New Mexico-made beers and wines during the New Mexico State Fair, happening Sept. 10-20 in Albuquerque.

The New Mexico Department of Agriculture (NMDA) and the New Mexico State Fair are partnering with the New Mexico Brewers Guild and New Mexico Wine Growers Association to kick off a first-of-its-kind series of events at the fair: The Reds, Whites, and Brews Mini-Fest, where people of legal drinking age can buy New Mexico beer by the can and New Mexico wine by the glass. NMDA will offer samples of New Mexico cheese to pair with the wines, as well as samples of New Mexico pecans, pistachios, and peanuts for fairgoers to snack on during the mini-fest.

“If you want to taste New Mexico in one place, The Reds, Whites, and Brews Mini-Fest is a good time and place to do it,” said New Mexico Secretary of Agriculture Jeff Witte.

The series of Reds, Whites, and Brews Mini-Fest events kicks off on Thursday, Sept. 10, from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. in the courtyard of the Agriculture Building, located across from the Manuel Lujan Commercial Building. The mini-fest returns – same time, same place – Friday, Sept. 11; Saturday, Sept. 12; Thursday, Sept. 17; Friday, Sept. 18; and Saturday, Sept. 19.

NMDA will host four other events to offer fairgoers a taste of New Mexico-grown and New Mexico-made foods. Each of the four events happens from 1 to 3 p.m. in the courtyard of the Agriculture Building:
· Saturday, Sept. 12: Sample 30+ commercially made New Mexico salsas and pick your favorite during the Battle of the Salsas
· Sunday, Sept. 13: New Mexico tacos featuring local grass-fed beef, salsas, cheese, and lettuce – all served in a locally made mini-taco shell
· Friday, Sept. 18: Gourmet mini-grilled cheese sandwiches featuring New Mexico cheese and a variety of ingredients
· Saturday, Sept. 19: New Mexico onion rings featuring locally grown sweet onions, as well as a variety of New Mexico-made dipping sauces

No matter what day you go to the fair, you’ll be able to find New Mexico foods there. That’s because NMDA is once again featuring its New Mexico Country Store – a one-stop shop where you can find several hundred New Mexico-made salsas and sauces, honeys, jams and jellies, and more – inside the Agriculture Building. The store will be open every day of the fair from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Store proceeds go to the food companies themselves and to the Rio Rancho Rotary Club. The club operates the store and puts its share of the proceeds enitrely toward philanthropic projects.

For more information about NMDA and its support of New Mexico farming, ranching, and food- and beverage-making, please visit www.nmda.nmsu.edu, as well as, NMDA’s NEW MEXICO-Taste the Tradition® program, whose logos were designed to promote New Mexico-grown and New Mexico-made food and other agricultural products.

The First Five Years….Pioneers!

The SFWC was the 1991 brainchild of Mark Miller, Al Lucero, and Gordon Heiss. While other national food and wine events focus on globetrotting celebrity guest chefs, national magazine advertisers, or Food Network stars (some of whom have never worked in a restaurant), the identity of The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, since it’s inception in 1991, has always been and still is the Santa Fe restaurant community.

Miller, who opened Coyote Café in 1987 to national acclaim, was and remains a proponent for even more festivals in Santa Fe. Lucero, who sold Maria’s restaurant last year after owning and running it with his wife Laurie for 27 years, was a wine enthusiast who wanted to prove New Mexican cuisine was worthy of a cultured beverage other than beer. Along with Heiss, all three wanted to create an event that would bridge the Santa Fe tourism gap between the early September Spanish Market and the October International Balloon Fiesta.

Over dinner and three bottles of Joseph Phelps 1985 Insignia on the patio at La Casa Sena, the three concocted Santa Fe Chile & Wine Fiesta, planning an afternoon bacchanal that would feature Santa Fe’s top restaurants serving tastes, alongside world-class wine.

From its inception the event has attracted world-class wineries. Beth Novak Milliken, the CEO and President of Spottswoode Winery, one of Napa Valley’s “First Growths,” was a participant at the 1991 inaugural event and a regular attendee in recent years. “The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta has, in my view, really evolved alongside the restaurant scene in Santa Fe,” she said. “As I recall, when the Fiesta first started in 1991, Mark Miller’s Coyote Cafe was getting a lot of buzz and helped to put Santa Fe on the fine dining map. There were other good restaurants in town, too, and all likely improved and ‎got more notoriety as a result of the buzz generated by Coyote Cafe.”

Like so many of the distinguished “regulars” who grace the affair with their culinary and wine knowledge, Milliken has had a front-row seat during the evolution of the event. “The Wine & Chile Fiesta has come a long way since the first year, and what I find so compelling is that the restaurateurs really support it and participate enthusiastically, making it a true community event among local restaurants and people, wineries from all around, and those who love to visit Santa Fe.”

The second and third year of the event moved the Grand Tasting to the courtyard of the Eldorado Hotel where then General Manager Paul Margetson welcomed the extra business the event attracted. In 1993, Michael Cerletti, working as General Manager at Betty Eagan’s Rancho Encantado, hosted a Sunday event in the resort’s horse barn named Champagne and Dirty Boots. The event was successful but disappeared when Cerletti went onto to his second term as New Mexico Secretary of Tourism. With Champagne Ruinart’s help, however, the Champagne and Dirty Boots event was revitalized last year with chef Andrew Cooper (a James Beard best chef of the Southwest semi-finalist this year) and the new Four Seasons management team at Rancho Encantado.

In 1989, shortly after moving to Santa Fe from San Francisco, I met Al Lucero while waiting tables at Santacafe. I had heard that Lucero was the king of margaritas and was surprised when he ordered a bottle of Dom Perignon for his guests. I quickly discovered that Al and I shared a passion for wine and we became fast friends. In 1991, I started working at Coyote Café with chef Mark Kiffin (owner of The Compound Restaurant) who, for over 25 years, has skillfully and generously added to what Mark Miller started.

By 1994 the SFWC Fiesta was gaining some traction and growing, but Miller was busy getting ready to open Coyote Cafes in Austin and Las Vegas with Chef Kiffin, so Lucero and Heiss needed someone to handle the logistics of the event. I interviewed with Lucero and was hired as the event’s executive director. The first thing we did was visit Max Meyers at Sunwest Bank to ask for a loan as seed money for the 4th annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta.

From 1994 – 1997 we held the Grand Tasting on an increasingly longer tent on the back lot of the Hilton of Santa Fe, adding a series of wine. One of the highlights of those years was having Joe Heitz, the founding legend of Heitz Wine Cellars, host a vertical tasting of his iconic Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

1998 through 2014

Over the next 17 years of the SFWC Fiesta, events were added and the number of days increased. A series of cooking demonstrations with visiting and local chefs was added to the schedule in 1999. In 2000 the first Friday Reserve Tasting took place, and a Trade Tasting on Wednesday extended the event to five days in 2001. In 2004, as a fund-raising effort for Santa Fe’s Cooking with Kids, a Live Auction Luncheon was added to the schedule, with five guest chefs each doing a course, paired with wines from a Winery Honoree of the Year.

Winery Honorees in the early years included Veronique Drouhin of Willamette Valley, Georg Riedel and Robert Mondavi. In 1997, during the boisterous Reserve Tasting in Eldorado Pavilion, Robert Mondavi walked in with his wife, Margit Biever. The 100 winery principals stopped pouring and a silent hush filled the room. Master Sommelier Robert Bath, pouring Shafter Hillside Select, turned to me and whispered, “My god, it’s Robert Mondavi. Without him and what he did for California wine, none of us would be standing here right now.”

Thankfully, we are still here, and still evolving. One of the biggest and best changes over these years was the 1998 move of the Grand Tasting to the Santa Fe Opera grounds. Overall, the time of year and the location combined with the preponderance of great Santa Fe restaurant participants sparks an enthusiastic and acclaimed winery participation which translates to a win-win for the eclectic and international crowd of consumers who attend every year.

Jason Haas, head of the small, family-owned Tablas Creek Winery in Paso Robles, rarely attends large wine events, but SFWC is an exception. “We love the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta for how totally it’s integrated into the culinary scene there.  Nearly every great restaurant in Santa Fe (and there are a lot) participates, and not just in a token way.  The result is that everyone involved, from wineries to sommeliers to consumers, wants to come back each year. And not just to show off what they’re doing that’s new, but to reconnect with old friends and to enjoy the unique richness of the town’s great food & wine scene.”

Top 5 Guest Chef Participants Southwest

Stephen Pyles
Mark Miller
John Sedlar
Mark Kiffin
Rick Bayless

Top 5 Guest Chef Participants

Jean Louis Palladin – The Watergate, Washington D.C.
Jose Andreas — Café Atlantico
Nancy Oakes – Boulevard, San Francisco
Matthew Accarrino – SPQR, San Francisco
Julian Serrano – Picasso, Las Vegas

Top 5 Wine Seminars

Win Wilson – Horizontal 1996 DRC & Domaine Dujac
John Shafer – Vertical Shafer Hillside
Paul Draper – Vertical Ridge Monte Bello
Veronique Drouhin – Domaine Drouhin Oregon
Joe Heitz – Vertical of Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet

Winery Honorees of the Year

2004 Veronique Drouhin, Domaine Drouhin Oregon
2005 John Shafer, Shafer Vineyards, Napa
2006 Robert Mondavi
2007 Georg Riedel
2008 Tom Shelton, Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Napa
2009 Dick and Nancy Ponzi, Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley
2010 Paul Draper, Ridge Vineyards
2011 Richard Sanford, Alma Roas, Santa Barbara
2012 Beth Novak Milliken, Spottswoode Vineyards, Napa
2013 Kathleen Heitz, Heitz Wine Cellars, Napa
2014 Laurent Gruet, Gruet Winery, New Mexico
2015 Tim Duncan, Silver Oak 

Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta Presidents

1991-1993 David Hoeman
1994-1996 Al Lucero
1997-1998 Brett Kemmerer
1999-2001 Randy Randall
2002-2003 Bert Leyva
2004-2005 Cater Tague
2006-2007 Kate Collins
2008-2009 Tom Kerpon
2010-2011 Emily Padon
2012-2013 Marla Thompson
2014-2015 Al Lucero

Now, That’s Italian: Best Italian Wines

ItalianWines-Aug2015With over 350 authorized grape varieties and roughly 500 additional grape types found in Italy, the country is an incredible trove of variety. Such diversity needs explaining, especially in wine. From north to south, from Nebbiolo to Nero d’Avola, the country, withits cuisine and wine, is amazing for its breadth of local specialties. There isn’t one Italy, there are many. How do you “travel the boot” and decide what wine to drink? When it comes to understanding what is available in New Mexico, I head to Albuquerque to talk to Daniela Bouneou, the Italian-born owner of the highly respected restaurant Torino’s at Home, and the Zonski family at Jubilation, which has been serving Albuquerque’s large Italian-American community for three generations. Continue reading

Gem On Museum Hill

Weldon

Santa Fe’s Museum Hill, a collection of museums and cultural institutions a few minutes from the Plaza, is a must-see for visitors and a weekend favorite for locals. It encompasses the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, the new Santa Fe Botanical Gardens and Milner Plaza, a gorgeous outdoor space surrounded on all sides by beacons of art and culture. To the northeast of Milner Plaza there’s the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, to the west is Santa Fe’s Museum of International Folk Art, and the Laboratory of Anthropology is situated along the south edge. Visitors can enjoy a meditative stroll through Milner Plaza’s seven-circuit labyrinth, or whisper from the center to play with the labyrinth’s unique acoustics. The plaza itself is host to a variety of classes, demonstrations and events all summer long, including the annual International Folk Art Market each July.

Anchoring the area and providing much-appreciated refreshments is Museum Hill Cafe, a full-service restaurant and wine bar with a spacious patio and incredible views. The cafe offers an atmosphere of casual refinement that is pitch perfect for a midday break. Diners can relax on the covered patio and admire the view as mellow afternoon music drifts in, creating an ideal spot to relish good conversation. It’s refined and understated but not at all stuffy or intimidating. Likely owing to their experience with tourists, the waitstaff excels at making even first-time visitors feel at home.

The cafe has been open since 2011, when owner Weldon Fulton returned to Santa Fe after more than 20 years in Southern California. During his time in the Palm Springs area, Weldon owned two quick service restaurants, which he sold when he returned to Santa Fe. After an endeavor in home building was cut short by the 2009 economic downturn, Weldon returned to his restaurant roots. “Food is my first love,” Weldon says, and six years later, his excitement and passion for food burns just as bright. Continue reading